Broken Top (Oregon)

[Scott Patterson]

Does anyone know if Broken Top is really class 3 as listed on LoJ?

https://www.listsofjohn.com/mobile/peak/17505

All other sources (guidebooks and web) say low 5th Class.

[Howard]

Hello Scott:

I don’t know Broken Top. However, I’ve run into a similar situation with Cerro Alesna in New Mexico. While descriptions are sparse, old accounts and verbal descriptionssuggest low 5th class. However, it’s recently been listed as 3rd class here on LOJ due to a great ascent by one of our more capable members who climbed scrambled it with a partner unroped. Thus it truly is 3rd class although I know timid folks like me prefer ropes due to the great exposure and chossy nature.

If I was contemplating Broken Top, I’d assume it was possible unroped, but also assume I’d prefer some protection.

Howard Snell