Mount Princeton 14,197' 04/20/02

I had a vendetta with this peak after turning back 200' from the summit back in February. This time around, I was betting that the road would be passable up to the radio towers. Eliminating 2000+ feet from the climb would certainly improve my chances for success. This proved to be correct, but it was a cold day with very little visibility (photo on right). Also, I had previously attempted the winter ridge route that involved a lot of postholing down in between talus, and returned the east slopes trail, which I would be attempting this time around. At a pullout a few hundred yards from the towers, I parked and sorted my pack and equipment, getting started at 7:30 am. The road was clear of snow except for a few patches, and I was making steady progress. All of the vegetation was coated with a thick layer of frost, giving an ethereal appearance to the surroundings. picture
picture I reached the trail that branches of the road in about half an hour. While I could only see 30 yards ahead, the trail was very distinct. I was a little apprehensive about spotting the correct point to abandon the trail and head to the ridge, as I couldn't tell where I was in relation to it. On the talus slope portion of the trail, I found myself quite grateful for the cold temperatures and lack of sunlight. The snow was in perfect condition for climbing, and I didn't experience a single postholing incident all day. I didn't remember this portion of the route being so long (i.e. before ascending to the ridge), but soon found bare dirt from braided trails to my left. Approaching the ridge was much easier than the last time I attempted this climb, as the snowpack was much more shallow.
Upon reaching the ridge, there was an interesting howling that led me to avoid the ridge for the rest of the ascent. At around 13,400', I broke above the clouds and anything higher than that altitude was sticking up through the clouds as well, appearing almost like a photo from Himalayan expeditions. The ridge climb went by fairly quickly, but it was somewhat unpleasant (like most Class 2 Sawatch climbs) picking your way up through the loose talus with no definable trail. I was able to avoid the wind for the majority of the ascent, but my hair was frozen and stiff (this was a new one for me). I reached the highest point I attained my on last attempt in about 2 hours from my starting time (it took six hours to get there the last time). In another ten minutes I could see the summit cairns and was feeling good. picture
picture It was very cold on top, and I found myself fumbling around to open the summit register. I was actually surprised to find one, since I hadn't been able to find one on any of my climbs since October. In fact, the register was just replaced recently by the CMC. I was hoping to get a good shot of Mt. Yale from the summit to add to my collection, but the cloudy weather compromised the vantage point to some degree. Heading back down was a little less pleasant than the ascent due to the nature of the talus, but I eventually found my way back to the trail. The total time for the climb was faster than I had anticipated, at under four hours.


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