| After a failed attempt on Sunshine Peak in late December, I was still determined to
climb a fourteener this winter. Driving out to Sheep Gulch the previous week proved easy access
to the Missouri Gulch trailhead. Since this climb entails 5,900' vertical and 11 miles, I knew
I had to go all out to get this one - a light pack (water, camera, and headlamp), plenty of sleep,
and no snowshoes. Arriving at Missouri Gulch at 8:00 a.m. I set out toward the switchbacks. The
trail was well broken, and it appeared that someone else started before me. Arriving at the top of
the switchbacks and into the Basin (photo on right), I saw that the other climber put on snowshoes at this point.
I began what was to be a long section of post-holing.
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After 45 minutes or so, I broke out below Mount Belford, where I encountered the other soloist.
He mentioned that the wind made conditions above Belford brutal and he forewent the climb to Oxford.
He started the hike at midnight hiking in the moonlight and making the summit
of Belford at sunrise. We parted ways, and I started up Belford's direct ridge. This is an outstanding
winter route because of the lack of avalanche potential (photo on left). It had taken me two hours to get to the ridge,
and would take me another two to reach the summit - twice as long as my Summer hike up Belford. The wind
was already quite apparent on the ridge, and snow crystals forced me to face South and pause several times.
Finally reaching the familar lump that is Mount Belford, The wind was indeed intense and the entire connecting
ridge to Oxford was a plume of old snow.
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| Since it was noon when I reached the summit, I was feeling good about my chances for Oxford, and after all,
it was the goal I was climbing for. I believed the wind would be intermittent as it was on the West side of
Belford, so I continued on (Mount Oxford on the right). That decision tops the list of masochistic things I have done in recent years. The wind was
constant and the fellow soloist I encountered earlier referenced the CAIC reporting constant 40 mph winds. This seemes like a fairly accurate assessment,
and it certainly did a lot to make it feel cold. The ridge down to the saddle was a little tricky initially because of cornices,
but generally not that bad. Without the wind, it might have been a lot better. Reaching the low point in the saddle (13,500')
was quite discouraging when looking back up at Belford. I had to take the ascent of Oxford rather slowly, in part because of the wind
literally blowing me sideways, though also because of exhaustion.
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I was beginning to wonder about my resolve to get back up over Mt. Belford after I completed Oxford,
and was somewhat relieved to think about descending Oxford as a break in the ascension monotony. I ran into
the false summit and was a little disheartened to see a higher point further on. One area had a very high cornice which
was thankfully very solid. On the left is a view of the final stretch to Oxford. I finally reached the summit at 1:30, and
the wind was at its worst there. Mount Harvard was a sight to behold from here, as well as Emerald Peak, and regretably, Mount
Belford with two miles of trail distance separating us. I began the descent of Oxford within a very short time as I knew the sooner
I arrived at the West side of Belford, the sooner the wind would no longer be a factor. |
| The picture to the right shows the backdrop of Mount Belford from the summit of Mount Oxford.
I was at the lowpoint on the saddle fairly quickly, and I was beginning to get my 'second wind' in more ways than
one. Although it seemed to take forever, I reached Belford's summit at 2:30. The descent down Belford's Ridge into
Missouri Gulch was much more pleasant, though a little icy in sections. I was relieved to see that the other climber
wore snowshoes all the way down from the basin, easing the route considerably. The plunge-stepping section was about the same,
other than the fact that it was more painful this time around. I arrived back at the truck at 5:20 p.m., with about 30 minutes
of daylight left. Hallelujah!
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