Humboldt Peak 14,064' 09/27/02

Departing Denver on Friday morning, I was looking forward to a fair-weather weekend (at least fair from forecasts) to bag Humboldt and Crestone Peak. Driving down the hill towards Westcliffe, I noticed a huge build-up of clouds all throughout the Sangre de Cristos. I was hoping it was just remnants of a front that passed through Denver Wednesday. The South Colony Lakes Road was just as I rememebered it from last year. This time, I slowed down a bit, but still managed to make it to the trailhead in 28 minutes. There was a heavy downpour of snow at the trailhead, and it didn't look like it was going away. I put on my new Montrail running shoes and gaiters over snowpants at 1:45 pm. Luckily, I came prepared for a scenario such as this. On the right is a view of an obscured Humboldt Peak from near upper South Colony Lake picture
picture I passed a group coming down that turned back near the saddle because of the heavy snow. I was impressed by the quality of the CFI trail up the saddle, as older trip reports show a scree-mongering approach. On the saddle, the weather was pretty nasty, but with glasses and a little perserverance, I continued on. The Peak and Needle looked ugly if one were to be ascending those; shrouded from about 13,000' up. Following the ridgeline and keeping my head down, I was still making good progress towards the summit. Nevertheless, doubt was in my mind the whole time I had been ascending. On the left is a view of the snowstorm on the West Ridge. Then, miraculously, the clouds started to break and the wind stopped. I was beginning to feel a lot better about my prospects of making it to the top.
Making my way further up the ridge, I got a better view of the Crestones and the snow deposits. Although I was confident in summiting Humboldt, I thought that if the South Couloir of Crestone Peak looked anything like the Eastern side, I wouldn't want to try it. There was considerable snow on Humboldt's ridge, and it was a little tricky in running shoes, but they were holding up very well. At about 13,600', I noticed some cairns and followed them on the North (left) side of the ridge. It seemed to be a good idea until I came into some cliffbands at about 13,800'. What is funny about this is that I had read several trip reports before recommending to avoid these. Maybe I should have knocked the cairns down? It wasn't too hard to backtrack and do a 15' scramble up to the ridge. From here, I saw the error of my ways, and how easy the terrain was in comparison. On the right is the summit of Humboldt as seen from the false summit to the west. picture
picture The short hike to the summit was very rewarding after having so much doubt. It was quite cold, however, and I didn't want to stay too long (It was 3:45 pm anyhow). The views of the Sangre de Cristo Range were phenomenal at this time of day, with a full coating of snow to boot. Making it back to the trailhead at 5:15 pm, I was feeling pretty good and chatted with a group who bailed on Ellingwood Arete earlier that day. Unfortunately, the snow became much more intense before I committed to setting up camp, and I headed out to perhaps try Mount Adams instead. I bailed on that plan as well, and settled for Mount Ouray at the Southern end of the Sawatch.


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